Torres del Paine is probably one of the most impressive mountain areas on Earth. There are few places like this with pillars of basalt reaching almost 1,000m in height surrounded by glaciers and lakes. These mountains are not like anything else I happened to see in Europe, Asia or Americas. The closest relative both in shape and location is Fitz Roy - Cerro Torre massive in the nearby Parque Nacional Los Glaciares, Argentina. A story of a fictitious climbing there became a subject of a movie by Werner Herzog "Shrei aus Stein" ("Scream of the Stone") shot on location - perhaps the best film about mountaineering ever made.

Torres del Paine mountains are formed by frozen magma in ancient volcanic craters. Everything else eroded away and only these columns remain standing there as gigantic phallic symbols in the middle of otherwise flat terrain of Patagonia. Their absolute altitude above the sea level is not that great, the highest is about 3,248 m, and latitude is only 50 deg S but the climate is such that glaciers start at about 1000m.

About the climate. This region is notorious by its constantly inclement weather. On the day I arrived there, it suddenly started snowing at just 500m although it was the middle of the summer. Out of five days I was hiking only one day was clear but then the wind was so strong that sometimes we had to sit down or hold on to whatever we could find there. What is the reward of that kind of hiking? It is incredible experience of watching these basalt towers and finding yourself suddenly on the edge of civilization and reality... and among a crowd of many others from all over the world. However, that problem can be easily solved: just walk extra hour past the campsite to the end of the trail and there will be NOBODY around even in the middle of hiking season. I made couple outings like that which I would highly recommend to everybody. Both of them I took to the places called probably by the nationalities of the climbing expeditions: campamento Japones and campamento Britanico. Obviously, not many people came there after the expeditions left because their cooking utensils were still in place.

Some practicalities. The most relevant guidebook is "Trekking in the Patagonian Andes" by Lonely Planet. It does not describe any of the mountaineering routes but instead focuses on the logistics and general description of the region and is sufficient to guide you through hike. Getting there is relatively easy. You fly to Santiago de Chile, then to Punto Arenas, which stands right on the Magelan Straight, then three hour bus ride to Puerto Natales. There you'll have to spend a night because all buses to the park depart early in the morning. It takes about 3-4 hours to get there. Upon your arrival, you'll have to show your passport to the militarized park rangers and pay the entrance fee. Enjoy the views!